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Getting to the start
Reasonably easy start, cycling downhill from home to Lymington Town railway station. A chance to feel what it is like cycling with two loaded panniers - certainly went down the hill quickly. Changing trains at Brockenhurst involved climbing over the footbridge. We moved the bikes and panniers separately in two trips then settled down to wait for the London train. Only three bike spaces but we weren't competing with anyone else with accompanied bikes. We had plotted a route between Waterloo station and Kings Cross station avoiding the busiest London roads and arrived in good time to catch our Newcastle train. Large luggage van on GNER train meant no problem stowing the bikes. Transferring from the main line express to the trans-Pennine Sprinter in Newcastle was not so easy. The two carriage Sprinter only had limited bike space and the platform was thronging with passengers and their bicycles. We decided that this was no time to be polite and 'British'. It was a case of rush to the door and hope to be first. We (and our bikes) got on, but so did many more others. A stand off between the passengers and railway staff ensued, "health and safety", "this train is not leaving until some 'customers' and bikes get off" There was no later train that day. It was resolved and we were still aboard. From Whitehaven station to our B&B was just a short cycle ride.
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Day 1 : Whitehaven to Keswick (34 miles)
Easy run in along the coast from our B&B to Whitehaven harbour and the official C2C start. Take photos of each other and bicycles beside the C2C route board.
Set off along the railway path in dry but grey weather admiring various bicycle themed sculptures on the way. After 10 miles we reach the end of the railway path and continue on small lanes, but only get as far as Lamplugh before we have to stop to mend our first C2C puncture. By now the weather has turned to slight fine rain. The drizzle continues as we reach Loweswater and enter the Lake District. Reaching the end of the lake John gets carried away ahead of Sheila and manages to miss the way and climb an extra hill before realising his mistake and returning to Sheila. Onwards, crossing the River Cocker in Lorton Vale from where some serious climbing on Forestry Commission tracks commences. We climb through trees on a track close to the road up Whinlatter Pass and the rain is now steady and heavy. The Forestry Commission visitor centre provides a welcome refuge for a hot lunch. We drape our wet clothing over various chairs. The rain eases up a bit as we set off again on an exciting steep and wet decent on forest tracks. Sheila manages to keep her brakes on and reduces the brake blocks to a soggy paste spread around the wheel rims. The rain finally stops as we reach Keswick where our first priority is to buy and fit new brake blocks to the Pink Peril. We head for the town's wholefood café and bike shop. Next task is to locate our B&B. Our bedroom is only very slightly larger than the double bed that it contains, so getting around the room is tricky and finding somewhere to hang up wet clothes to dry is a challenge. Then it is time to head out again to take a look at Derwent Water and find a pub for dinner. 
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Day 2 : Keswick to Langwathby (27 miles)
There are route choices today because the C2C has options for the next
section. We decide not to take the wheel-breaking old coach road, nor
the hilly road beside Castlerigg stone circle, but opt instead for the
railway path out of town. A bit of a clamber down steps near the
beginning and then quite a few gates to open and close, but a charming
trail along the valley criss-crossing the stream on old railway bridges.
From the end of the railway path we continue on a tiny lane from Threlkeld to Troutbeck beside the shoulder of Blencathra. Then say goodbye to the Lakes and whizz downhill to Greystoke (of Tarzan fame), where we sit on a bench beside the entrance gate to the estate for a coffee break. From there it is on to lunch in Penrith. Having done most of the day’s run by lunchtime, there is time for a long stop and shopping. We bought two bright yellow pertex tops in one outdoor shop and then a Paramo shirt each in another. From Penrith we leave town on a slight route deviation recommended by one of the outdoor shops to rejoin the Sustrans route climbing up hill and then dipping down to cross the River Eden and into Langwathby. B&B looks good - a step up from Keswick - and we have time to walk to the “Brief Encounter” tea-rooms at Langwathby railway station for afternoon tea. Dinner in the pub on the green opposite our B&B. 
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Day 3 : Langwathby to Allenheads (30 miles)
Serious hills (the Pennines) ahead today. But almost straight after setting off it is a steep climb from little Salkeld to reach the Little Meg Stone Circles. They were quite hard to find and not that exciting once discovered.
Not much further and we are at the foot of the main Pennine hills. To make it harder it is a rough track requiring some walking and bike pushing to make it to Selah Bridge. Now in a very strong wind the main climb begins. Sheila does some walking, while John rides with his bike at a ridiculous angle leaning into a cross wind, until we reach the A686 (double chevrons all the way). Both of us cycle the second part of the climb on the main road to the café at Hartside summit (1,903ft). Photos at summit sign, although it is hard to keep the camera steady in a gale force wind. Then into the café for coffee and cake. Another cyclist arrives and we chat about this trip and his previous End-to-End run. Feeling refreshed we venture out again and enjoy a high-speed downhill all the way to Leadgate. At this point we detour off the route to drop down into Alston for a pre-lunch snack (and sunshine), knowing it would be uphill again to return to the route at Garrigill via the B6277. We stop there in a pub for our second (real) lunch. From Garrigill the route out is via a ford, which today is dry. We meet a bunch of C2C cyclists there who take our picture beside the River South Tyne before continuing ahead. A short but very steep track gets us to the B6277 for a short distance before turning onto a forest track climbing and crossing Little gill at a ford. John repeats the crossing and risk of wet feet for a photo. The first part of the track down to Nenthead is unrideable boulders but it soon improves to be loose and rough but manageable. Fairly desolate ex-mining country. We stop in Nenthead to get our C2C card stamped and talk to a C2C cyclist on a narrow rimmed road bike. He can’t be following most of the rough tracks we have taken? Up and down ride to Allenheads with one of the ups taking us to the highest point of the C2C route (just touching 2,000ft) at Black Hill. At one point turning a sharp corner we almost come to a dead stop through hitting the gale-force wind head on. Allenheads is a remote settlement in the valley of the River East Allen. Our B&B in an old school is “interesting” rather than comfortable - mattress on the floor accommodation. We spend the evening and dinner in the Allenheads Inn in the company of Durham prison warders, who are also cycling the C2C, and of “Alice” at the bar. The pub décor and landlord are both beyond description. - but not to be missed. 
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