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John and Sheila
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      • Diary pre tour
      • Diary Day 1
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    • Brittany 2012
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    • Alicante + Pyrénées 2013xxx
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  • Germany + Switzerland + France 2015
  • test Germany + Switzerland + France 2015
Day 4:  Allenheads to Beamish (50 miles)
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As ever it is an uphill start to climb onto moorland leading to the summit at Currick. Arriving first and well ahead of Sheila, John sat in the isolation of remote upland with birdsong above while waiting for her to arrive. A long downhill beside Rookhope burn past old lead mine workings to Rookhope village itself.

Now a mixture of cycling and walking to get up the old railway incline – described accurately as “steep and rough in places”. The route now crosses the moor on landrover tracks, which are  is easier and dryer than expected. We join and part from the Durham prison warders contingent at various points.

From Waskerley the route joins another former railway line, but we have a bit of confusion in the old mine workings trying to locate the start. Basically it should be all downhill to the sea from here!  The railway path takes us over Hownsgill viaduct to reach Lydgett's junction  on the edge of Consett beside an old smelt wagon preserved as a reminder of Consett Steel Works. Consett gives us an opportunity to visit Safeways for provisions and to have our C2C card stamped.

We have plenty of time, so decide to take a detour from here down the railway path on the version of the C2C towards Newcastle. This takes us to Rowlands Gill and Gibside. We try to have tea at Gibside but are thwarted by an advance National Trust pay booth between the tea/gift shop and us. Nonetheless we admire the building and grounds from railway viaducts before turning back and returning uphill to Consett.

Down again towards Sunderland, through Stanley to Beamish. We admire and stop to photograph some of the sculptures on the way, in particular the cows made from recycled JCB parts.

Finally it is a short run away from the path at Beamish to head for our B&B at the Beamish Mary Inn. An interesting 1930s into 1940s utility period bedroom, with a bed that sags so that you have to be on good terms with your sleeping partner because you will spend the night rolling onto each other towards it's centre. The Beamish Mary Inn looks to be a quite a rough spit and sawdust pub, but there is nowhere else to eat so we will be dining in. Washed and changed we come down in the evening for dinner and find the whole place dramatically transformed with white linen tablecloths and candles to make it a very respectable and popular drive out from Newcastle or Sunderland dinner venue. Super meal at very little cost.

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On the landrover tracks across moorland of Stanhope Common
Smelt wagon survivor from Consett Steel Works closed in 1980
Smelt wagon survivor from Consett Steel Works closed in 1980
River Derwent
Detour towards Newcastle through Rowlands Gill to Gibside - River Derwent
Artistically patterned fields
Ornamental balustrade on old railway viaduct near Gibside
On the C2C Consett to Chester-le-Street Railway Path sculpture trail
On the C2C Consett to Chester-le-Street Railway Path sculpture trail
Relaxing on monumental scale seat on the C2C Consett to Chester-le-Street Railway Path sculpture trail
Relaxing on monumental scale seat on the C2C Consett to Chester-le-Street Railway Path sculpture trail
On the C2C Consett to Chester-le-Street Railway Path sculpture trail
On the C2C Consett to Chester-le-Street Railway Path sculpture trail
Sculpture trail cows made from recycled JCB parts near to Beamish
Sculpture trail cows made from recycled JCB parts near to Beamish
Beamish Mary Inn

Day 5: Beamish to Sunderland (Roker) and on to Durham (36 miles)
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Back on the cycle path, skirting around Chester-le-Street and through the wild territory of Washington. No marauding gangs, however, but lots of cyclists out for pleasure or going to the shops. We reach a complete stop at James Steel park where a huge building site with a steel perimeter fence bars the way. Spend some time trying to locate a diversion around and back onto the route (no helpful signs). Eventually sort ourselves out and cross the River Wear at Cox Green and head on down towards Sunderland.

Lots of huge new development in view such as the Nissan car plant. We arrive in Sunderland and over the Wear Bridge to follow a riverside path through the university. Everything is completely new to John who last saw it as shipyards while working here in the late 1970s. Arrive at the marina for card stamping and photos of each of us at the official "End of C2C" sign. But this is not the furthest east it is possible to cycle, so we continue out to Roker pier and cycle to the very end for photos of bike + lifebelt + North Sea; then return to the marina for lunch.

We retrace, following the route back across town and then take a series of cycle paths or roads around Chester-le-Street towards Durham. Penshaw monument, the Earl of Durham's 1844 folly stands out clearly on Penshaw hill. We stop at the River Wear again at Finchale Priory, which is in an Idyllic setting on a bend of river. From there we continue on road and a path around (feels like through) the prison, following route advice from warders given in the Allenheads Inn. Finally through a mass of oilseed rape and into Durham. 

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KIng Coal sculpture near to the closed coal mines of County Durham
Route barred by huge building site at James Steel park.
Looking for a way around blocked route in order to cross River Wear
River Wear bridge at Cox Green
On the other side of River Wear and back on C2C route
Stopping for a snack on the grass overlooking River Wear before Sunderland
Sunderland - River Wear bridge
The official C2C end at Sunderland marina on the North Sea
The official C2C end at Sunderland marina on the North Sea
The official C2C end at Sunderland marina on the North Sea
The very end on Roker Pier
The very end on Roker Pier
Penshaw monument
River Wear at Finchale Abbey on the way to Durham
River Wear at Finchale Abbey on the way to Durham
River Wear at Finchale Abbey on the way to Durham
Bridge over River Wear at Finchale Abbey on the way to Durham
Bridge over River Wear at Finchale Abbey on the way to Durham
Bridge over River Wear at Finchale Abbey on the way to Durham
Through fields of oil seed rape approaching Durham
Arrival in Durham - castle and cathedral

Day 6: Durham and Home
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The bicycles are left at our B&B for the morning while we wander around Durham and its river banks.

A spot of lunch then cycle out to the railway station to catch the train back to Kings Cross.
Across to Waterloo station and home, changing at Brockenhurst on the way.
Back in Lymington in daylight - just East Hill to climb and we are home.
Super trip with mostly fine weather despite our soggy start to Keswick.
Sustrans West Country Way and now the Coast to Coast has given us a great introduction to cycle touring.

Would we go cycling again? -
Yes, but:
  • We need to resolve the problem of John being up the hill, while Sheila is still coming along well below
  • We need to take a more "lightweight" approach to luggage.

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Sight-seeing in Durham
Sight-seeing in Durham
Sight-seeing in Durham
Sight-seeing in Durham
Sight-seeing in Durham
Sight-seeing in Durham
Sight-seeing in Durham
Sight-seeing in Durham
Sight-seeing in Durham
Sight-seeing in Durham

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