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John and Sheila
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  • Germany + Switzerland + France 2015
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Day 11: The Giant of the Marmotte - Col du Galibier  TdF HC  2,645m
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Degrees of indecision about what to do today. Originally we had thought it would be a travel / rest day before tackling the Col du Galibier on Monday, but as we had our car in Bourg d’Oisans we could decide on how active or inactive to make today.

The weather had changed quite dramatically from very hot and sunny to cool and rainy. We studied three weather forecasts and although not totally agreeing their general points were that for today and tomorrow at the Col du Galibier there was a 40% chance of rain, with snow at 2,800m and above (which is less than 200m higher than Galibier). The temperature would be about 1
℃, but feeling about -5℃ with wind chill.

So, we had a leisurely breakfast and then mooched through the town centre to watch the start of a running race. Their circuit took in 3 villages in the area and included climbing 1,000m on the way. There were competitors from all parts of France. Most were just wearing typical marathon running kit, but several also carried walking poles, so we were not quite sure how steep or rough all the climbing was going to be for them.

It is a long run in from Bourg d’Oisans to Galibier on a fairly main road for much of the way with a collection of tunnels of varying lengths. So after a bit of dithering we decided to drive out beyond the tunnels to see what the weather was like and then decide whether to put the trike together and tackle Galibier. This would make the climb shorter, but still “epic” compared with anything on offer in Britain! We packed all our winter mountain clothing and set off.
After negotiating the tunnels on the main road we were both quite convinced that they would not be much fun at all on a bicycle. At the car park it was a bit windy, but not rainy and the cloud base was above us (a bit) so we resolved to go.

The Col du Galibier is an HC climb reaching 2,645m, which makes it a true giant and is often the highest mountain col used by the Tour de France. Galibier Is, BIG. Looks BIG and Feels BIG. Lots more snow close to us beside the road and above and below us than on previous days. It just all felt a lot more “mountain”.

Like on some other days tons of motor cycles out – respectable looking tourists and also Rockers not looking like the person you would want your sister to go out with. But all were very friendly with their waves and encouragement.

Sheila was going OK, but John struggled and made hard work of the first km (perhaps having underestimated how much Alpe d’Huez had taken out me yesterday?) Sheila asked if I was out of breath and when I finally had enough breath to reply and say ‘no’, she said OK, we go on.

After a snack and roadside loo stop, we both got going well and the gradient was “steady” rather than “grippy”. We heard a marmite (oops, marmot) but did not see any. Lots of white mountain narcissus though and Sheila spotted a couple of white pasque flowers.

There is a tunnel about 1km before the col. This was closed for 30 years but was re-opened recently for motor vehicles. Cyclists are not allowed through the tunnel and still have to go up and over and this final push to the Col was decidedly grippy, kicking up to 12%. We really were lucky at the top though because the rain held off (apart from small drizzly bits) and the cloud base had lifted above the Col as we were coming.

Photos taken, we put on lots of clothes and dropped carefully back down around the tight hairpins to the tunnel and nearby caf
é. A welcome hot chocolate stop and John got carried away and bought a T shirt. Sheila resisted (thank goodness) buying a very fetching (she said) yodelling, furry marmite in a felt Tyrolean hat with feather.

Outside the caf
é is the monument to Henri Desgrange – the man who first organised the Tour de France in 1903 and also the man who inaugurated Audax cycling events. An essential photo stop for cyclists.

All clothes on for the descent. Sheila sporting an additional two fleeces, buff, skiing mitts, pertex wind proof and mountain waterproof AND the stripy leg warmers. John in not much less. The windchill dropping down the mountain on a bike at 40 to 50kph is something to respect. We stopped to warm up and have a late lunch back at the Col du Lauteret.

Back in Bourg d'Oisans we did a bit of essential shopping before showers included buying a replacement bottle cage for a broken one, some more magic powder (electrolytes) for drinks. And most importantly the back half of the sole of one of John’s cycling shoes had come away and required urgent attention. A friendly bike shop glued it back together – we just hoped it would stay stuck.

The next day we motored over Galibier in much better weather and took a few more photos.

Click on any photo to enlarge and scroll through
On and from the road up Galibier
On and from the road up Galibier
On and from the road up Galibier
On and from the road up Galibier
On and from the road up Galibier
On and from the road up Galibier
On and from the road up Galibier
On and from the road up Galibier
On and from the road up Galibier
Others on the road up Galibier
Breather and comfort stop at an orientation table - Sheila heading off for a suitable spot
Breather and comfort stop at an orientation table
Breather and comfort stop at an orientation table
Sheila modelling the stripy socks
Nearly there, but that 9% average had a very much steeper kick up nearer to the col
The Col du Galibier
The Col du Galibier
Combinations of us at the Col du Galibier
Combinations of us at the Col du Galibier
Combinations of us at the Col du Galibier
Sunnier photo at the Col
Col from summit above
Col from summit above
This is the side we arrived from
Felt all of 12% on the final push
The route down and eventually to the Col du Télégraphe
Views out from Galibier
Views out from Galibier
Views out from Galibier
Views out from Galibier
Views out from Galibier
Views out from Galibier
Views out from Galibier
Views out from Galibier
Views out from Galibier
View down to Henri Desgrange monument and auberge near to the tunnel
View down to Henri Desgrange monument and auberge near to the tunnel
View down to Henri Desgrange monument
View down to Henri Desgrange monument
Henri Desgrange monument
Trike parked beside Henri Desgrange monument
Henri Desgrange monument
Henri Desgrange monument
Sheila providing scale to Henri Desgrange monument
Audax plaque
Henri Desgrange monument
Henri Desgrange monument
Well clad in winter gear after downhill drop to the Col du Lauteret
Col du Lauteret
Col du Lauteret
Bicycles at the boulangerie in Bourg d'Oisans
Bicycles at the boulangerie in Bourg d'Oisans
Food not bicycles for sale in this Bourg d'Oisans shop

> DAY 12 FROM OUR BLOG and PHOTOS <

Day 1: Col de la Bataille (1,313m)
Day 2: Col de la Machine (1,015m),
Col de Carri (1,215m),
Tunnel des Grands Goulets (1710m long)
Day 3: Col de Preletang (1,267m)

Day 5: Avoriaz (1,800m)
Day 6: Col de la Colombière (1,618m Cat 1)

Day 7: Cormet de Roselend (1,968m  Cat 1)
Day 8: Col de la Madeleine (2,000m Cat HC)

Day 9: Col de la Croix de Fer (2,067m Cat HC),
Marmotte 1 - Col du Glandon (1,924m Cat HC)
Day 10: Marmotte 2 - Alpe d’Huez (1,860 Cat HC)
Day 11: Marmotte 3 - Col du Galibier (2,642m Cat HC),
Col du Lauteret (2,058m)

Day 12: Marmotte 4 - Col du Télégraphe (1,566m Cat 1)
Day 14: Tourism by car from Briançon
Day 15: Col d'Izoard (2,360m Cat HC)
Day 16: Mercantour 1 - Col de la Bonette (2,715m Cat HC),
La Bonette - highest point in Europe by road 2,802m

Day 17: Mercantour 2 - Touring in the Tinée Gorge
Day 18: Mercantour 3 - Col de la Cayolle (2,326 Cat HC)

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